Travel

Sri Lanka

The Pearl of the Indian Ocean

 

Sri Lanka is an island country located just below India. It’s known for a multitude of attractions including robust wildlife and nature, tea plantations, delicious food, multiple religions, kind people and unbeknown to many, incredible surf. 

Sri Lanka’s economy thrives on tourism and for decades this industry has come under threat due to the civil war that lasted nearly three decades from 1983 - 2009, making Sri Lanka an unsafe place to visit during periods of this unrest. In 2004 it was devastated by the Indian Ocean tsunami that killed more than 30,000 people and most recently in 2019 a terrorist attack rattled the island nation with what are now known as the ‘Easter Bombings’, where a number of churches and hotels were targeted in a coordinated attack by two jihadist organizations who detonated multiple suicide bombs. 

The country is still recovering from the many years of misfortune, but these struggles have not taken away from the beauty this land has. Within the tiny island there is an abundance to see and do. Below are some recommendations for a short trip from the North East to the South East. 

NORTH EAST
Ella
Ella is a small town in the high country of Sri Lanka. It’s about a five hour journey from Colombo by car. Ella is known for its idyllic green hills, waterfalls, hikes and breathtaking views of valleys from places high up. 

EAT + DRINK 
Cafe Chill
This is the go to tourist drinking hole in the sleepy town of Ella, serving delicious food and cocktails. It is not a town known for partying but due to its spectacular nature it can become very touristy. The main street is lined with cute cafes and restaurants with a variety of local and western fare. Cafe Chill’s upper deck transforms into a lounge bar in the evening, you can guarantee almost everyone in town looking to socialize will be there. 

SLEEP 
Sleep Cheap Ella
The name says it all. This hostel really is value for money. Located a short walk from the main street, Sleep Cheap Ella has clean rooms, an included breakfast and extremely friendly and helpful staff. They have a garden area with avocado trees and a place for a bonfire. It also boasts stunning views and has a hiking path located right next door. 

EXPLORE
Little Adam’s Peak
A great way to ease into your hiking in Ella is to start with Little Adam’s Peak. This is a short hike and not too strenuous, only taking about 1 hour return. The best time to visit is at sunset. From the top there is a 360-degree view of Ella Gap and Ella Rock. It’s absolutely breathtaking.

Ella Rock
This is why everyone comes to Ella. A much tougher hike than Little Adam’s Peak, Ella Rock has expansive views of Ella town, Ella Gap and Little Adam’s Peak. The hike to the summit is one of the best parts. Walking along the Ella to Kandy train line, you’ll encounter villages, tea plantations, see waterfalls and some of Ella’s iconic bridges. The route to the summit can be tricky to follow, don’t be surprised if you take a wrong turn or accidentally end up in someone’s backyard. At the top enjoy a fresh coconut while taking in the spectacular views and also catching your breath from the tough ascent. The hike to Ella Rock takes around two hours round trip but be prepared with plenty of snacks and water because if you feel inspired and have the energy there are other paths you can take from the summit and choose your own adventure to get back into town. 

Ravana Falls
There are plenty of waterfalls to visit in Ella. Ravana Falls are easy to access, making them often crowded but when you’re dripping in sweat after one of your many hikes in Ella, the crowds will be the least of your worries. 

Bandarawela
If you’re looking to stock up on supplies or catch a bus head to Bandarawela. This is the largest town closest to Ella. If you want to take a train journey through the hill country jump on here as this is one of the most beautiful parts of the ride. It’s also a very local town, so dine at one of the roadside restaurants with the locals. Sure, you’ll be ogled at but the food is well worth it.

Nine Arch Bridge 
If you’ve heard of Ella, you’ve likely seen photos of the Nine Arch Bridge. The bridge is known as a viaduct bridge, a long structure, often encompassing arches with a road or railway line situated in a valley.  The Nine Arch Bridge is one of Sri Lanka’s prime examples of colonial-era railway construction. The bridge is surrounded by a vast jungle of palm trees and tea plantations and is one of the most picturesque bridges in the area. 

EAST COAST

Arugam Bay 
Arugam Bay is a small coastal town located close to Pottuvil, the largest hub for commerce and transportation in the area. The bay is known most commonly for it’s various surf breaks as well as historic temples and the nearby Kumana National Park. It’s predominantly Muslim but there is also a Sri Lankan Tamil and Sinhalese presence. When visiting, speak to the locals, they know best and are always willing to help, particularly when it comes to the surf breaks, what’s safe and what’s not and any upcoming forecasts. As well as surfing and eating, Arugam Bay has a plethora of yoga studios and classes. Often the schedules are marked on roadside boards, welcoming anyone wanting to stretch out after a long day in the surf. Try and catch a sunset class overlooking the ocean.

EAT + DRINK
Leaf + Vine
This divine Sri Lankan restaurant/bar is owned by an Australian/Sri Lankan couple. It boasts fresh seafood and local Sri Lankan fare. It’s a must do when visiting Arugam Bay. 

Hideaway Juice Bar
Located at the front of Hideaway Resort, this is the ideal place to refuel after your morning surf. Grab a fresh juice or smoothie to go or sit in the outdoor lounge area that is part of the resort, they also have great food.

Hoppers
You can’t visit Sri Lanka without trying a Hopper. Hoppers are a staple of Sri Lankan cuisine. They are made from coconut milk and rice flour and have a crispy pancake-like feel. The best way to try one of these is from one of the many street food carts lined along the main street. Watch each vendor expertly create your meal in front of your eyes. 

Mambos
Each night in Arugam Bay a different venue hosts a ‘party’. On Saturday nights its Mambo’s. Located right on the waterfront, you can guarantee anyone down to party will be here. If you’re not in the partying mood then check out some of the other fun drinking holes that won’t be as crowded on a Saturday night. 

Whiskey Point
As well as a well known surf break, Whiskey Point also has a weekly party. Also located on the beach, but if you’re staying in Arugam Bay you’ll need a tuk-tuk to get you there. Don’t worry the locals know when the parties are so there’ll be plenty of transport available. 

Reggae Party
There’s also a weekly reggae party and the location changes week to week, so listen out for word around town if that’s your jam. 

Siam View 
Located on the main street, this is a popular Thai restaurant, with large tables and lots of space. It has a sports bar so be warned, it can get pretty touristy. 

Words: Alice I’Anson 2020
Cover Image: Alice I’Anson 2020

 

SLEEP 
Hideaway 
Located in the heart of the main street, on the opposite side to the beach, this little oasis is buzzing with friendly staff, a pool, yoga classes and beautiful beach style rooms. Each night they have a happy hour at their outdoor bar and during the day you can spend time relaxing on the lounge furniture beneath the palm trees and enjoy a fresh juice from their juice bar. 

Gecko
Right on the beach, this friendly hotel offers simple rooms and a restaurant area situated in their lush tropical garden. 

SURF
Elephant Rock
A classic Arugam Bay point break, Elephant Rock is great for beginners (on a small day) and is often bustling with surf school students. 

Panama
A little more remote than some of the other spots, Panama has a wide breadth of sand to get to the water. Another point break, be careful of submerged rocks. Usually better for more intermediate surfers, but check the reports on the day and always speak to the locals.

Peanut Farm
Similar to Elephant Rock, Peanut Farm is beginner friendly and often crowded with surf schools, it has a fun vibe and there are always plenty of people around. 

Main Point 
Not for the faint hearted. Main Point is located right in town. It’s a point break with a shallow reef. If you’re not quite ready to test your skills it’s an excellent place to watch the pros at sunrise and sunset. 

Baby Point
It’s all in the name. You’ll only really get waves here on a foamie, even then it’s super crowded mostly with families and young children. There are much better places in Arugam Bay to learn how to surf. 

Okanda
Okanda is located about a 45 minutes tuk-tuk ride out of town. You’ll be dropped off in the middle of a village, and despite the commonness of surfing you will be in the limelight as you head down the wide sandy path towards the waves. Okanda is more suited to intermediate and advanced surfers, but even if you’re not at that level the trip to get there is well worth it. 

Whiskey Point
Not only known for its weekly party, Whiskey Point is a great place for a sunrise surf. Spend the morning riding long, clean waves. Be sure to get there early as it gets crowded super fast. It seems like everyone has discovered this once hidden gem. 

Pottuvil Point
One of the most fun waves in Arugam Bay. It’s great for beginner - intermediate surfers on a small day. Like most waves around here it’s a point break. There are some rocks to climb close by where you can watch surfers enjoy long playful rides. 

EXPLORE
Kudumbigala Monastery
If you head to Kudumbigala Monastery combine this with a surfing trip at Okanda. Surf at Okanda first and then make your way to the monastery. Try and go as close to sunset as possible if you can, however the views are spectacular no matter the time of day. The monastery sits within a national park which has a close time and they stop letting people climb too late because of the many nocturnal wild animals that live here. Visiting Kudumbigala Monastery is an absolute must if you find yourself in Arugam Bay. 

SOUTH
Hiriketiya 
Paradise exists. This horse shoe shaped bay lined with jungle shrubs is an idyllic location to surf, swim, relax and unwind away from any commercial civilization. Swimming and surfing conditions are near perfect all year round due to both its southern location and the bay's shape protecting it from harsh seasonal winds. Hiriketiya is a place where you might genuinely lose track of time.

SLEEP 
Dots Surf Hostel
Situated right on the beach this hostel is made up of cute beach style cabanas, a small cafe/restaurant and extremely friendly staff. 

EXPLORE
Dickwalla
If you miss the sound of horns and the hustle and bustle of the city, take a tuk-tuk into Dickwalla, the main town closest to Hiriketiya, and eat at a Sri Lankan restaurant with the locals. The food is unparalleled and while you might get stared at, you won’t be treated any differently to the locals who serve themselves from bain maries, drink cold beer and watch the cricket on the small television propped up in corners around the restaurant. 

Walk
There are plenty of nature paths to follow right off the beach. Discover ruins scattered within the jungle or take a walk along the cliff style rocks and enjoy beautiful views of the ocean, the cliffs are rarely crowded so sitting on the rocks to read or meditate can be a really rewarding experience. 

Surf
Hiriketiya Beach has an extremely diverse break. Closer to the shore the waves are fun and gentle, perfect for beginners. As you head further out the back there are clean breaks that can get pretty sizable, watch out for rips as you get further out. 

GETTING THERE, AWAY + AROUND
Transport
 
Ground
Buses are a great way to get around. A new highway has been built which makes getting to and from Colombo from around the country much faster. 

Air
If you’re flying from Australia the quickest and cheapest flights to Sri Lanka are usually on AirAsia with a stopover in Kuala Lumpur. If you’re looking for something slightly less budget Qantas and Emirates also fly there. 

If you’re flying from the U.S Qatar and American Airlines fly to Sri Lanka, usually with a stopover in Doha or London.

Stay tuned for the next in the Sri Lanka series. A journey through the center and the West Coast.